La fresque des canuts sur la Croix Rousse à Lyon

Visiting Croix-Rousse in Lyon: What to Do and See

Perched on one of Lyon’s two emblematic hills, Croix-Rousse is a district apart—bohemian, historic, and working-class all at once. Formerly a major center of silk production, it’s now known for its village vibe, traboules (hidden passageways), mural frescoes, and traditional markets.

So, what to do and see in Croix-Rousse? Here is a complete guide to visiting Croix-Rousse, one of Lyon’s must-see neighborhoods.

👉 For an unusual visit, discover our Treasure Hunt: The history of the canuts in Croix-Rousse, a mix between a guided walk and a life-sized escape game!

1. Climb up to Croix-Rousse

The experience begins with the climb up the hill:

  • On foot: take the famous slopes, especially the Montée de la Grande-Côte, lined with artists’ studios, cafés, and shops.

  • By metro: line C goes straight up to Croix-Rousse station.

👉 Photo tip: at the top of the Grande-Côte, enjoy a panoramic view over all of Lyon, as far as the Alps on a clear day.

2. Explore Croix-Rousse’s history at the Maison des Canuts

The Maison des Canuts in Lyon The Maison des Canuts in Lyon

It’s impossible to understand Croix-Rousse without mentioning the canuts, the silk workers.

  • The Maison des Canuts traces their history, their struggles, and their craftsmanship.

  • Demonstrations of weaving on traditional looms.

👉 Practical tip: allow 1 hour for the visit. Perfect if you like combining history and craftsmanship.

3. Discover the Amphitheater of the Three Gauls

Amphitheater of the Three Gauls in Lyon Amphitheater of the Three Gauls in Lyon

At the foot of the hill, near Place des Terreaux, are the remains of the Amphitheater of the Three Gauls.

  • Built in the 1st century, it hosted spectacles and ceremonies.

  • It is one of the oldest Roman monuments in Lyon.

👉 Tip: perfect to combine with a stroll through the slopes.

4. The Fresco of the Canuts (Boulevard des Canuts)

The Canuts fresco on Croix-Rousse in Lyon The Canuts fresco on Croix-Rousse in Lyon

Located on Boulevard des Canuts, in the heart of Croix-Rousse, the Fresco of the Canuts is the largest mural in Europe. Created by the collective CitéCréation, it covers more than 1,200 m² of façade.

  • It depicts the daily life of Croix-Rousse residents and evolves over the years: new generations appear, shops change, children grow up…

  • The trompe-l’œil effect is striking: windows, balconies, staircases, and scenes of life seem to emerge from the wall.

  • It’s a living fresco that reflects the neighborhood’s friendly, working-class soul.

👉 Photo tip: come back several times over the years—details change regularly.

5. The Cour des Loges Fresco (Slopes of Croix-Rousse)

Less well known than the other two, the Cour des Loges Fresco is located on the slopes of Croix-Rousse.

  • It showcases Lyon’s rich architectural heritage with a trompe-l’œil that pays tribute to the Renaissance façades typical of Vieux Lyon.

  • You’ll find arcaded galleries, inner courtyards, and staircases typical of Lyon’s traboules.

  • It’s an artistic nod to the Cour des Loges, one of Vieux Lyon’s most prestigious mansions, now a 5-star hotel.

👉 Tip: take the opportunity to explore the adjacent lanes, rich in street art and small galleries.

6. The Fresco of the Lyonnais

The Wall of Famous Lyonnais, located on Quai Saint-Vincent, is arguably the city’s most iconic fresco.

  • Also created by CitéCréation, it spans 800 m² and features more than 30 Lyonnais figures across the centuries.

  • Among them: the Lumière brothers (cinema pioneers), Paul Bocuse (legendary chef), Antoine de Saint-Exupéry and his Little Prince, as well as political, scientific, and cultural figures.

  • Each person is depicted life-size on a balcony or at a window, creating a living tableau that tells Lyon’s story.

👉 Photo tip: in the morning, the light is perfect to capture the entire fresco without too many shadows.

7. Taste the local gastronomy

The neighborhood abounds with restaurants and traditional Lyonnais bouchons.

  • Typical dishes: quenelles, Lyonnaise salad, tablier de sapeur (breaded tripe).

  • Renowned bouchons: some are found on the Slopes, often less touristy than in Vieux Lyon.

👉 Gourmet tip: don’t miss the “brioche aux pralines,” a Lyonnaise sweet specialty sold in several Croix-Rousse bakeries.

8. The Condition des Soies

The Condition des Soies in Lyon The Condition des Soies in Lyon

In the 19th century, Croix-Rousse was the epicenter of Lyon’s silk industry. The Conditions des Soies were the warehouses where silks were stored and inspected before being sold.

  • These imposing buildings testify to the neighborhood’s industrial past.

  • Some are now converted into housing or cultural spaces.

👉 Tip: stroll around Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse to spot these remnants of the silk heritage.

9. Saint-Polycarpe Church

Saint-Polycarpe Church in Lyon
Saint-Polycarpe Church in Lyon

Nestled on the Slopes, Saint-Polycarpe Church is an overlooked treasure.

  • Built in the 17th century by the Oratorians.

  • Magnificent classical façade and bright interior.

  • A spiritual site marked by Pauline Jaricot, a notable Lyonnaise figure of spiritual resistance.

👉 Tip: take time to admire its organ—one of the finest in Lyon.

10. Passage Mermet

Passage Mermet in Lyon Passage Mermet in Lyon

Famous for its immense colorful staircase, Passage Mermet links the Montée de la Grande-Côte to Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse.

  • Urban frescoes and graffiti create a uniquely artistic atmosphere.

  • A spot much loved by photographers and Instagrammers.

👉 Photo tip: it’s ideal in late afternoon to capture the street art’s vibrant colors.

11. Place Chardonnet

 

Charming and peaceful, Place Chardonnet is a typically Croix-Rousse corner.

  • Lined with small terraces and friendly cafés.

  • A village atmosphere that contrasts with the bustle of the Slopes.

👉 Tip: perfect for a coffee break under the trees in summer.

12. Passage Thiaffait

Passage Thiaffait in Lyon Passage Thiaffait in Lyon

A former industrial passage, now renovated, Passage Thiaffait has become the Village of Creators.

  • Artisans’ workshops, fashion designers, and designers.

  • A bohemian, trendy atmosphere.

👉 Shopping tip: ideal for finding unique pieces and supporting local creators.

13. Jardin des Plantes

Auguste Burdeau Fountain at the Jardin des Plantes in Lyon Auguste Burdeau Fountain at the Jardin des Plantes in Lyon

A true green lung of Croix-Rousse, the Jardin des Plantes is a historic garden.

  • Created in the 19th century, it was Lyon’s first botanical garden.

  • Today, it’s a quiet space to rest after climbing the Slopes.

👉 Tip: an excellent spot for a picnic with a city view.

14. Place Colbert

Place Colbert in Lyon Place Colbert in Lyon

A small square perched on the Slopes, Place Colbert is full of charm.

  • Village atmosphere, with benches and colorful façades.

  • A popular meeting point for locals.

👉 Tip: it’s also a good starting point to explore the surrounding traboules.

 

15. The Gros Caillou

Gros Caillou in Lyon Gros Caillou in Lyon

A symbol of Croix-Rousse, the Gros Caillou is a huge rock placed on the esplanade of the same name.

  • Discovered during the drilling of the funicular in the 19th century.

  • It is one of the best-known landmarks for Lyon residents.

  • From the esplanade, the view over eastern Lyon—and, in clear weather, the Alps—is spectacular.

👉 Photo tip: come at sunrise or sunset for an exceptional panorama.

16. Place de la Croix-Rousse

 

On the top of the plateau, Place de la Croix-Rousse is the beating heart of the neighborhood.

  • It hosts one of Lyon’s largest markets, especially lively on weekends, with local producers and regional specialties.

  • It’s also a lively spot with terraces, cafés, and regular events.

  • You’ll find the “Chien assis” fresco here, as well as several starting points for traboules and stairways leading down toward the city center.

👉 Tip: come on a Sunday morning to wander the market and sample Lyon’s local produce.

17. The Cour des Voraces Traboule – Visit Croix-Rousse through its passages

Traboule of the Voraces Traboule of the Voraces

A true symbol of Croix-Rousse, the Cour des Voraces is Lyon’s most famous traboule.

  • Built in the 19th century, it is renowned for its six-story monumental staircase, unique in Europe.

  • A key site of workers’ memory, it was an important crossing point during the canut revolts in the 19th century.

  • Today it links Montée Saint-Sébastien to Rue Imbert-Colomès and remains open to the public.

👉 Visiting tip: don’t forget to look up as you pass through—its architecture is as impressive as its history.

18. The Statue Le Chant des Canuts

Le Chant des Canuts in Lyon Le Chant des Canuts in Lyon

Erected in homage to the silk workers, the “Le Chant des Canuts” statue is a symbolic work of Croix-Rousse.

  • It recalls the famous 19th-century revolutionary song that became an anthem of the canut uprisings.

  • Written by Aristide Bruant, the song expresses the hardship of workers’ lives and the pride of Lyon’s working class.

  • The statue pays tribute to the men and women who shaped Lyon’s social and industrial history.

👉 Tip: pause for a few minutes before this monument to appreciate the importance of workers’ memory in the identity of Croix-Rousse.

Practical tips for visiting Croix-Rousse

  • Ideal duration: at least half a day; a full day if you want to explore both Slopes and Plateau.

  • Access: metro C (Croix-Rousse or Hénon stops), buses C13 and C18.

  • Best time: morning for the market; late afternoon for the views.

  • Shoes: essential! The slopes and stairways call for good sneakers.

Conclusion for visiting Croix-Rousse

Croix-Rousse is more than a neighborhood: it’s an immersion into Lyon’s working-class history, a living place where past and modernity mingle. With its mysterious traboules, monumental frescoes, lively market, and bohemian vibe, it captivates every visitor.

👉 If you want to discover Lyon’s popular and creative soul, Croix-Rousse is an essential stop.

And to make sure you don’t miss its secrets, join our immersive treasure hunt on the history of the canuts in Croix-Rousse, a fun and original way to explore the neighborhood.

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